Catalyst - Surfing Scientist Special
Catalyst's own surfing scientist, Ruben Meerman, heads to Queensland's Sunshine Coast to look at the science of the beach.
The Perfect Wave
Riding clean perfectly formed waves is the ultimate experience for any keen surfer. And for some finding the perfect break is an obsession. Scientists call them surface gravity waves and no-one knows more about them than Dr. Kerry Black, a former professor of Oceanography at Waikato University. Ruben Meerman gets his dream job when he catches up with this Aussie guru of the 'green-room' on Queensland's Gold Coast to find out what makes the perfect wave.
One day it's a millpond, the next it's full of violent rips and dumpers - the character of your local beach can change in an instant.
Most beach loving Aussie's would be familiar with the gnarly sting inflicted by a bluebottle but not many of us know much about them.
Majestic stretches of golden sand are considered to be Australian icons – national treasures, even. But Thomas Schlacher, from the University of the Sunshine Coast says that not enough attention is paid to preserving Australia's famed beaches and that we could be loving them to death by 'treating our beaches like roads'.
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